![]() The end of the strap was pointed and holes were punched at 10mm intervals to allow the buckle prong to go through. The strap was then cut out with scissors. Curves were then drawn in to avoid making square corners (picture 2 this step). Then parallel lines were marked 9mm to each side of the center line (to suit the size of the buckle to be used). The center of the strap was marked for the length it needed to be narrow (about 350mm). The first problem was that I wanted to use a smaller buckle to attach this strap to the main strap and the second was how to make the underarm strap attach to the main strap.īecause the straps had already been cut to the same width and attached to the quiver the underarm strap needed to be narrowed. Next was the underarm strap and this posed two problems. To do this the center of the straps were marked and curves were drawn on using a sift pencil and then cut and trimmed with scissors. Once the edges were laced the strap ends were shaped to soften the square edges. Then ends of the laces were not trimmed but were split using scissors and allowed the hang down. When you get both ends through the last hole tie them off using whatever knot you are comfortable with and add a few drops of glue (I used superglue, but craft glue -PVA would also work). Then repeat the process with the other lace so that it is crossing the first lace on the outside edge of the quiver (see photo). ![]() Then starting with one side thread the lace through each of the sets of holes all the way to the end. To lace the edges feed the lacing through the first two holes until the lace on both sides is of an even length. I then laced the edges together using kangaroo hide lacing (saddlery supplies, some craft stores). Go slowly as once a hole is punched it cannot be changed. I was important to keep the holes as even a possible and also an equal distance from the edge (about 10mm). The quiver was folded in half and held in place by three small spring clamps (hardware store), and holes were punched every 15mm (the distances were not measured just estimated). However, a hole punch and a hammer were used on a wooden block to punch out the lacing holes. I researched quivers on the internet, at my local archery club (looking at commercially available quivers - mostly side quivers) and by browsing archery supply stores (which are few and far between).Īt his point there was a break in the work for about a week and I forgot to take pictures of the whole process when work was resumed. Cost was also a limiting factor as the whole point of making this quiver was because I had no desire to pay over $100 for a quiver from an archery supplier. There were some limitations to this project such as the fact that I could not machine sew this material and the thought of hand sewing it with thread made me cringe, also I have not skill at leather carving or embossing so it is a bit plain. I should note that I am not a leather work expert so if you are then please forgive any mistakes. In total there is about $35 worth of materials here and it took me 4 - 5 hours. All of the fittings (buckles and rivets) came from a local antique/bric-a-brac store and a local saddlery supply shop. ![]() The hide is about 3mm thick and I used a section about 600mm x 400mm, not including the straps. I used cow hide that I picked up cheaply at a craft market. ![]() Here is an archery quiver that I constructed.
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